Ellora Caves: A great communion of Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain rock-cut architecture

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Inside a Jain Cave in Ellora

Note: You can read my travelogue on the world famous Ajanta Caves here

Having already immersed myself in the spiritual and artistic wonders of the Ajanta Caves, I was all prepared for my next destination. Situated in the north-west of the city of Aurangabad and about 100 kilometres from Ajanta, Ellora is an UNESCO World Heritage Site that represents the epitome of rock-cut architecture in India. Ellora is one of the major tourist attractions in the Marathwada region of Maharashtra and is protected under the Archaeological Survey of India. The site has a total of 34 caves which are essentially structures excavated out of the vertical face of the Charanandri hills. There are 12 Buddhist (caves 1–12), 17 Hindu (caves 13–29) and 5 Jain (caves 30–34) caves. While the Buddhist and Brahmanical group of caves are built by the Rashtrakuta dynasty, the Jain group of caves are built by the Yadavas. As per the estimates, the Buddhist, Hindu and Jain rock-cut temples and viharas and mathas were built between the 5th century and 10th century. The Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain caves, built in proximity, are a testament to the religious harmony and tolerance prevalent at the time.

Stone carved to look like wood

Inside a Buddhist cave at Ellora

The Buddhist caves were built during the 6th-7th century. And while it was initially believed that these were the earliest structures, it has now been established that some of the Hindu caves predates. The Buddhist structures consist mostly of viharas or monasteries comprising large, multi-storeyed buildings which are carved into the mountain face and include living and sleeping quarters, kitchens as well as other rooms. Some of these monastery caves have shrines including carvings of Gautama Buddha, bodhisattvas and saints. In many of these caves, sculptors have endeavoured to give the stone the look of wood. Most famous of the Buddhist caves is cave 10 often called as the "Vishvakarma Cave" or "Carpenter's Cave". It should be noted that it is the only chaitya griha amongst the Buddhist group of caves. 

The majestic Kailasa temple at Ellora

Depictions of the Ramayana on the Kailasa temple walls

The Hindu caves were constructed between the middle of 6^th century to the end of the 8^th century with the early caves being constructed during the Kalachuri period. The first one were Caves 28, 27 and 19 followed by two most impressive caves constructed in the early phase, Caves 29 and 21. Also, the caves 14, 15 and 16 were constructed during the Rashtrakuta period. The real beauty of these caves lie in the fact that all these structures represent a different style of creative vision and execution skills with some of the most complex ones requiring several generations of planning and co-ordination to complete. Cave 16, also known as the Kailasa temple, is the unparalleled masterpiece of Ellora. Its design is based upon the abode of Lord Shiva, Mount Kailash. Although, it has the appearance of a freestanding, multi-storeyed temple complex, it’s actually carved out of one single rock. The temple is a splendid achievement of Rashtrakuta architecture in Karnataka.

Carvings of the Jain tirthankaras at Ellora

The Jain caves, which are just five in number, at Ellora date back to the 9^th and 10^th centuries AD with each belonging to the Digambara sect. These caves depict a strict sense of asceticism, which is the essence of Jain philosophy and tradition, and while they are not relatively large as compared to others, they serve as exceptionally detailed specimens of art. Chhota Kailash (cave 30), the Indra Sabha (cave 32) and the Jagannath Sabha (cave 33) are the most notable Jain shrines. While Cave 31 is an unfinished four-pillared hall and a shrine, Cave 34 is a small cave. Amongst other devotional carvings, a place called Samavasarana—a hall where the Jain tirthankara preaches after attaining omniscience—can be found in Ellora caves.

Accommodation: Since there are limited places to stay in Ellora, most tourists prefer to do a day trip to Ellora and stay in Aurangabad (where you can find all kinds of hotels depending upon your budget and needs) which is about 30 kms away. However, if you really want to stay in Ellora then Hotel Kalidas would be a good option which is located just opposite the Ellora caves and offers cottages as well as hostel accommodation.

Visiting the Caves: Ellora is well connected with Aurangabad. Based on your preferred mode of transport, you can opt for rented cars, taxis, or buses. The caves are open to the public from on all days from sunrise to sunset, except on Tuesdays.

In my next article, I will talk about my visit to the Elephanta Caves.

7 Wonders of India: Ajanta Ellora Caves (YouTube)

References:-

1). Wikipedia
2). ASI Website

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